A Cornish Surfer’s Perspective

Surfing to me is about a number of things - most importantly the enjoyment I get from it.
It is the pure love for surfing that drives me to get up on a cold and wet winter’s day at the crack of dawn & has made me the person I am. Surfing gives me the freedom from everyday life. It clears my mind of all worries, fears and problems, a place where I feel close to my childhood - remember having no worries, no issues?
I love the power of the ocean and the rush of pushing my boundaries, taking the largest wave, taking off little bit deeper, and the feeling of complete and utter helplessness as the waves roll and wash me along. It reminds me of my Dad throwing me in the air, completely weightless and helpless, going back to my childhood.
Nowadays it’s the buzz from making turns which I’ve always wanted to do and becoming as good as the people I’ve looked up to for years. I enjoy the pleasure others get from watching me and I love encouraging others to share my passion. I love surfing as much today as I did 10 years ago. Yes things have changed; nothing will ever stay the same. Like the way others perceive me, I am still the same surfer, I’ll always surf for fun, and it clears my mind, washes the world away and reminds me of my youth.
For me, it’s about having fun and enjoying the moment. The person that’s had the best surf is not necessarily the one who’s had the largest waves, done the best turns. Rather, it’s the surfer with the largest smile on his / her face; it’s the one that’s reliving their childhood, carefree in the moment.
People forget the reasons why they surf, forget what it means.
Surfing is relaxing, challenging spiritual and fun. Many of us are not fortunate to surf for a living and often I see people get frustrated with themselves and with others.
Getting to the standard I have reached is simply from surfing daily, it’s come from surfing and having fun. Catching the wave, waking up at godforsaken hours, surfing when its rubbish, waiting for the all-important wave.
All I have to say is “ Ask yourself why do you surf�, “why did you start�, Are you surfing for those reasons, for the right reasons or have you got lost in trying to be the next world champ.
Have fun, that’s what I say!